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After our time at Lake Louise, and a couple of days driving out to Drumheller, we spent a few days hanging out at Paul Rogers’ place in Canmore (thanks Paul and Tana!) – nice to spend a few nights out of the van…
The limestone cragging round Canmore is pretty sweet, so we spent a couple days cragging while we waited for the weather to come right so we could head into Castle Mountain and climb Brewer’s Buttress, a classic 13 pitch 5.6 high on the mountain.
We’d heard rumours of a Kiwi-style hut to use as a base for the route, so setting off on Friday afternoon we made the steep three hour walk up to check out the accommodation, hoping to climb the route the next day … [hover for cations] Walking in to Castle Mountain Hut
Kiwi-style for sure!
Pretty sweet place for a cuppa...
Castle Mountain is formed from two massive tiers, with a big rubbly ledge between. The hut sits at the top of the first, with a 300-400 metre drop below. The access to the hut takes a steep gully through the first tier.
Part of the upper tier of Castle Mountain (2800m). The 13 pitch Brewers Buttress is on the right skyline.
An awesome dunny for sure!
We were lucky enough to see a couple of Hoary Marmots.
Zen garden
Hanging out on the edge of a massive cliff is great!
The 25 minute walk to the route the next morning
We swung leads the whole way up. Hana crushing pitch 2... There was the odd fixed pin, and the belays were bolted, otherwise it was nice trad climbing on variable rock... it got better the higher we went.
Summit plateau
Top of the descent gully. Scree, scrambling, and three abseils.

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